Taquería El Califa de León

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Coordinates: 19°26′28″N 99°9′33″W / 19.44111°N 99.15917°W / 19.44111; -99.15917
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Taquería El Califa de León
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Refer to the caption
The taqueria's entrance
Map
Restaurant information
Established1968 (1968)
Owner(s)Mario Hernández Alonso
Food typeAntojito
Rating1 Michelin star (Michelin Guide, 2024)
Street addressAv. Ribera de San Cosme 56, San Rafael, Cuauhtémoc
CityMexico City
Postal/ZIP Code06470
CountryMexico
Coordinates19°26′28″N 99°9′33″W / 19.44111°N 99.15917°W / 19.44111; -99.15917

Taquería El Califa de León is a taqueria in Colonia San Rafael, Cuauhtémoc, Mexico City. It was founded in 1968 by Juan Hernández González. Its menu is limited to a small variety of beef tacos made with hand-made tortillas. The restaurant received a Michelin star in 2024, the first Mexican taco stand so awarded.[1]

History[edit]

The restaurant was opened in 1968[1] by Juan Hernández González[2] and is named after the nickname of bullfighter Rodolfo Gaona. Most of the restaurant's small footprint—variously cited as 100 square feet (9.3 m2)[3] or 50 square metres (540 sq ft)[4]—is dominated by the large grill while customers cram into the other half, where there is no seating. The sidewalk outside is occupied by street vendors, further limiting capacity.[3]

A noted regular in the 1980s and early 1990s was Luis Donaldo Colosio, later a Mexican presidential candidate who was assassinated in 1994. Framed on one wall is a 1993 column from the newspaper Ovaciones in which the author recounts running into Colosio and states, "[i]t's the most egalitarian eatery in Mexico. Everyone eats standing, dripping salsa on the stools, whiffed by sleepless dogs."[5] Other politicians, including Eruviel Ávila, Miguel Ángel Osorio Chong, Humberto Moreira Valdés, and Carlos Salinas de Gortari, were known to be regular customers;[6][7] the restaurant is four blocks and 650 meters (2,130 ft), nine minutes' walk, from the national headquarters of the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI).[8][4]

The name "El Califa" was never trademarked, and a 15-unit taco chain in the Mexico City area is also known as El Califa.[3] In 2017, the stand reported that it has struggled since Hernandez Alonso's death in 2002 due to competing with other taco stands, insecurity in the area, and the cost of the dishes.[9]

Menu[edit]

The menu has remained much the same; Hernández González told his son, Mario Hernández Alonso, that it was not worth expanding because "avarice rips the bag".[4] Its signature taco, the Gaonera, is named for Gaona;[1] it is one of three items on the menu, alongside steak and rib tacos.[10] Tacos are prepared with handmade tortillas.[11] Drinks are soft drinks or juices.[12] The Gaonera taco, the most popular taco at the stand, is made from a tender, juicy filet mignon steak[13] that is grilled with a little grain salt and a few drops of lime.[9] Diners may season with salsa verde or roja.[14]

Reception[edit]

In Marco Beteta's opinion, the hand-made tortillas and tacos were excellent and well worth the price.[11] Writing for Los Angeles Times, Alonso Ruvalcaba listed El Califa de León a place to go for tacos.[13]

On 15 May 2024, El Califa de León was awarded a Michelin star—indicating "high-quality cooking, worth a stop"—, the first time a Mexican taco stand had received such a distinction. The announcement praised the Gaonera's beef fillet and corn tortillas as an "elemental and pure" combination. The news caused crowds and long lines to form outside the restaurant.[1] As a result, the restaurant's revenues increased, it employed additional staff members, and adjacent businesses profited.[15]

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b c d Graham, Thomas (18 May 2024). "Fans queue round the block as tiny Mexican taco stand wins Michelin star". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Archived from the original on 19 May 2024. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  2. ^ Castañón, Liliana (25 June 1999). "Gaoneras: Un lance glorioso" [Gaoneras: A glorious set]. Reforma (in Spanish). p. 3. ProQuest 310241600.
  3. ^ a b c "First Mexican taco stand with a Michelin star says 'simplicity' is the secret to success". NBC News. Associated Press. 16 May 2024. Archived from the original on 18 May 2024. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  4. ^ a b c Patiño, Joaquín (17 May 2024). "Solo tres tacos y filas interminables: El Califa de León, la taquería ganadora de una estrella Michelin con nombre de torero" [Only three tacos and endless queues: El Califa de León, the Michelin-starred taqueria with a bullfighter's name]. El País (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 17 May 2024. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  5. ^ Monteros, Raulí (12 April 2024). "El Califa de León: la taquería escondida de políticos y artistas" [El Califa de León: the hidden taqueria of politicians and artists]. Chilango (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 17 May 2024. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  6. ^ Espinosa, Gabriela (15 May 2024). "El Califa de León: la primera taquería con estrella Michelin en México" [El Califa de León: the first Michelin-starred taqueria in Mexico]. Sopitas (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 16 May 2024. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  7. ^ Reséndiz, Francisco (4 January 2011). "Un hombre de "la raza" que quiere dirigir el PRI" [A man "of the people" who wants to lead the PRI]. El Universal (in Spanish). ProQuest 822365550.
  8. ^ Ponce, Héctor (1 April 2022). "'Alito' Moreno resta; Marko Cortés suma" ['Alito' Moreno subtracts; Marko Cortés adds up]. El Debate (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 6 April 2022. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  9. ^ a b Ocampo, Mónica (31 March 2017). "'El Califa de León' y la leyenda del taco gaonera" ['El Califa de León' and the legend of the gaonera taco]. Vice (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 18 May 2024. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  10. ^ Pett, Shaun (3 September 2018). "A local's guide to Mexico City: 10 tips". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Archived from the original on 19 May 2024. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  11. ^ a b Beteta, Marco. "El Califa de León". Marco Beteta (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 18 May 2024. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  12. ^ "El Calida de León, un tesoro gastronómico oculto en San Cosme" [El Calida de León, a hidden gastronomic treasure in San Cosme]. MXCity (in Spanish). 23 November 2014. Archived from the original on 18 May 2024. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  13. ^ a b Ruvalcaba, Alonso (19 February 2019). "¿Se encuentra en la Ciudad de México y quiere comer tacos? Le sugerimos ir aquí" [Are you in Mexico City and want to eat tacos? We suggest you go here]. Los Angeles Times (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 19 May 2024. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  14. ^ "El Califa de León en San Cosme: los tacos favoritos de Colosio y de quien los pruebe" [El Califa de León in San Cosme: the favorite tacos of Colosio and whoever tries them]. Local.mx (in Spanish). 8 March 2019. Archived from the original on 19 May 2024. Retrieved 18 May 2024.
  15. ^ Wagner, James (24 May 2024). "A Mexican Taco Stand Goes From Local Favorite to Michelin Darling". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 26 May 2024. Retrieved 27 May 2024.
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